Hat expertise

Find the right hat for your face shape.

Twenty-four years of fitting hats in Brooklyn, distilled into one rule: the right hat balances your face, never echoes it.

The one rule: balance, never echo.

A round face wears angular hats. A square face wears rounded hats. A long face wears wide brims. A heart-shaped face wears medium brims that sit a little lower. The goal is to add the shape your face does not already have.

Before choosing style, measure your head circumference to get the size right. Face shape decides style; head size decides fit.

Round face

Add height and angles.

Forehead, cheekbones, and jawline are similar widths. Face length and width are roughly equal. Cheeks are full, jaw is softly rounded.

Wears wellAvoid
Fedora with center dent (crown height 4+ inches, brim 2.5+ inches)Close-fitting beanie
Panama with wider brim (3 inches)Floppy sun hat that echoes the round face
Structured beret worn straight on the headTilted floppy cap
Cattleman / cowboy with tall crownRound, low-crown cloche

CZEVIP pick: Heritage Wool Felt Fedora - the angular center dent and 2.75-inch brim open up a round face.

Oval face

Almost anything works.

Forehead is slightly wider than the chin. Face length is about 1.5 times the width. Jawline is gently tapered. The most balanced face shape.

  • Medium-brim fedora with a moderate crown (4 inches) is the classic recommendation.
  • Panama hats sit naturally - any weave pattern works.
  • Berets can be worn tilted or straight.
  • Avoid hats that sit too deep on the forehead or too far back on the crown.

Square face

Soften the jawline.

Forehead, cheekbones, and jawline are roughly equal widths. Strong angular jaw. Face length and width are similar.

Wears wellAvoid
Beret (round, soft crown)Flat cap with stiff brim
Soft-brim fedora with curved edgesRigid structured crown (stovepipe, top hat)
Bucket hatSquare-brim boater
Tilted floppy felt hatSharp-cornered cap (snapback)

Heart-shaped face

Balance wide forehead with medium brim.

Wide forehead tapering to a narrow chin. Cheekbones are the widest part. Pointed or rounded chin.

  • Bucket hat - sits a bit lower, balances the wider forehead.
  • Soft-brim fedora with brim tilted down at the sides.
  • Newsboy cap - covers the upper forehead, draws eye down.
  • Avoid very wide brims (3.5+ inches) or tall crowns (5+ inches) - they exaggerate the upper face.

Long face

Add width, shorten visually.

Face length is significantly more than width. Forehead, cheekbones, and jaw are similar widths.

Wears wellAvoid
Wide-brim sun hat (3.5 - 5 inches)Tall crown (top hat, stovepipe)
Medium-depth fedora worn forwardNarrow-brim fedora
Newsboy cap or ivy capCrownless visor
Beret pulled to one side, lower on the foreheadTight beanie pulled high

Now fit it

Got your shape? Get the size.