Style

How to wear a hat with a suit.

Three rules cover ninety percent of formal hat situations: match the hat to your shoes, pick a brim that fits the occasion, and take it off indoors.

Rule 1: Match the hat to your shoes.

The most common hat mistake is mismatched colors between hat and shoes. A black fedora with brown shoes looks unfinished. A brown fedora with black shoes looks like a different outfit.

ShoesHat colorFormality
Black oxford / derbyBlack fedoraFormal / evening
Dark brown oxfordDark brown fedoraSmart business
Tan brogueCaramel or light brown fedoraCasual office
Suede desert bootSand or taupe feltWeekend
White sneakerNo hat, or a baseball capStreet casual

Rule 2

Pick a brim that fits the occasion.

Brim width signals formality. Wider brim = more statement, less office-appropriate. Narrower brim = more office-appropriate, less statement.

  • 2 - 2.5 inch brim: Office-safe, conservative, good with business suits.
  • 2.5 - 3 inch brim: Classic fedora width, versatile from office to evening.
  • 3 - 3.5 inch brim: Statement - good for weddings, photos, theater.
  • 3.5+ inch brim: Drama - western, theatrical, or sun-hat territory.

Rule 3

Take it off indoors. Always.

This one is non-negotiable in Western dress. Remove your hat when entering:

  • A home (anyone's home)
  • A restaurant (from the moment you sit down)
  • An office or meeting room
  • A church or place of worship
  • During a wedding ceremony
  • During the US national anthem
  • When introducing yourself to someone

Keep it on: outdoors, in airports, in hotel lobbies, during elevator-only transit, while walking between venues. At a wedding, you can keep it on during the outdoor cocktail hour; remove for the indoor reception and dinner.

By occasion

Hat picks for the moments that matter.

Job interview

Skip the hat indoors - you will take it off at reception. Wear a conservative dark fedora or no hat.

Office, daily

Charcoal or dark brown fedora (2 - 2.5 inch brim). Wear from your commute; remove at the elevator.

Outdoor summer wedding

Natural-color panama (3 inch brim) for guests. Black or charcoal felt fedora for evening reception.

Garden party

Wide-brim sun hat (women) or panama (men) - both work. Coordinate with the host's dress code.

Cocktail event / evening

Black felt fedora (2.5 - 3 inch brim) for the most formal. Dark brown for slightly less formal. No hat at indoor black-tie.

Race day (Kentucky Derby, Royal Ascot)

Statement hat encouraged: wide-brim felt, dramatic feathers (women), bold-color fedora (men). This is the one occasion where bigger is better.

Common mistakes

What not to do.

  1. Wearing a hat with a slogan on it to a formal event. Even if the hat itself is well-made, branding reads casual. Save it for the weekend.
  2. Tilting the fedora to one side. Tilting looks like costume. Wear it straight on the head.
  3. Wearing a hat too far back on the head. The crown should sit just above the ears, not behind them.
  4. Pairing a black fedora with brown shoes. The single most common formal hat error.
  5. Wearing a baseball cap with a suit. The two come from different dress codes. Choose one or the other.

Try one on

Get the fit right.